It Was So Good....My Soul Is Clean!
I asked for a board and my Dad wanted me to love the ocean as he did and saw this as following his steps.... We went to the board shop and I got my first board, it was a 6,1 flat fish board.... I spent hours perfecting the art of surfing or the basics that is, I got into the water at 6 in the morn and got out at 3 in the afternoon, I
began with the white water and shore breaks. I learnt to kneel, then to crouch... eventually I stood.... all the while being called all the names under the sun by the local surfers young and old (a world that is so closed if you cant shred or rip a wave, your nothing in there eyes, infact you are called a "Kook") One year later and I was shredding, ripping and airing to my hearts content, I gained respect from the "treble boys" up the north coast.I could surf 6 footers, to 10 footers, I was loving the waves and felt that I had a passion of a lifetime!
I happily went on, I got cut up one day by a kid that would not accept that I could actually surf as good as him and still be a "vaalie" He pulled a blade on me whilst paddling past me, I bled,paddled back to the beach, I climbed out, ran to the chemist and patched my self up, I got back in the water and surfed the best pearl one could imagine, he paddled back to the shore!
I continued to surf, sometimes alot and some times there was a break for six months,
I yearn everday for the water....
Im 34 today and have my own business, its hard to get to the water, but I had a holiday this December that my mates and I had been planning for a year... some of the mates were the "treble boys" We were going to surf all the digs we could get our boards into from Jeffreys Bay to Cape Vidal, we had booked hotels and bed and breakfast spots for the whole trip..... every holiday of travel to Europe or Dubai or the States would never compete with this one we were about to enjoy, this was going to be it, I had one whole month of water and waves!
We flew to Port Elizabeth had two Mercees Vitos (vans) waiting for us, all 14 of us with wives and girlfriends,packed the boards and kit into one van and cruised together in the second.....
The next morning I was at super tubes.... man I cannot explain to you how beautiful the water looked, glass on the front and bashing on the back.....
I had not for over two years been in the water, sure I grabbed a board when I was in the Maldives, but the waves were waist high and really pathetic on the Kani island that is, but not like this, I had six of my mates paddling next to me, the sun was just a ray of light at 5 in the morn, we were on another planet.....
I just cannot explain to you how my soul was smiling, I was so fucking happy, nothing on earh could make me smile like that.. it was Gods gift to me, he let ride his water... I had one of the toughest years of my life, a year that made me hard and bitter, I was here right now in the water cleaning my soul.....
Man that first wave was my ultimate..... it just lifted my spirit, the stoke was all I wanted!
We cruised the coast for a month together and what a month it was, we surfed, we laughed, we tasted the good life, it was just so beautiful!! The Stoke was on and it was good!
I came home and have given up smoking, I am now training every night at gym in the pool, i am going to take my surfing seriously, it is good for me, and whats good for me is good for the business....
I am going to surf my dream wave in three years.... be it Mavericks, Hawai or just a good barrel in Indo, im going to do it and I FUCKING WILL!!!
My hearts yearning for the big water... I will train and train hard.... I will get there!!
















